Article by Dominique Winebaum with photo credits René Lorenzini.
Our Tour des Combins (TDC) in 7 days, 72 miles/116 km, 20,000 feet / 6,100 meters of elevation with Gear Report. This article features an overview of our TDC followed by an itemized review of the gear tested on the trek.
THE TRIP
In late March, after consulting with my brother, René, who lives in Switzerland, we decided to hike Le Tour des Combins.
“Trekking the Tour des Combins” by Andrew McGluggage, 2024.
René has a chalet in Les Marécottes, Valais, which was our departing point on Monday, September 1st, by taking the train from Les Marécottes to Orsières (via Martigny) and then the bus from Orsières to Bourg St-Pierre. From the Geneva train station, it is a 3 hour train ride, including the bus ride from Orsières to Bourg St-Pierre. René is a talented photographer (as a hobby), whose pictures are featured in this article, along with Sam Winebaum’s.
I self booked our trek via the Mon Tour Des Combins Site finding availability by hiking counter clockwise and by taking a variant through the lower Aosta Valley as the Rifugio Champillon was full.
This gave us flexibility booking a room for 3 versus sleeping in a dormitory for the first 3 nights along with more time at lower altitude walking/hiking through picturesque villages to get acclimated for the high mountain trails ahead of us.
Hiking the TDC counter clockwise provides a different perspective than hiking clockwise, is slightly harder, and presents fewer encounters with hikers following the same route. We started our trek in Bourg St-Pierre crossing paths with those hiking the Via Francigena, with some heading all the way to Rome; some mountain biking the Tour du Mont-Blanc on the MTB route; others hiking the Alta Via 1. It was not until our overnight stay at Cabane Chanrion (day 4) that we met another couple - Yuanfei and Jim, from Boston - hiking the TDC counter clockwise, just like us, but in 5 days versus 7 days, and they did not take a variant as we did.
Lac des Toules, a reservoir with a floating solar plant, hiking from Bourg St-Pierre to Col du Grand St-Bernard.
A shorter version than the Tour du Mont-Blanc, the TDC is nevertheless a demanding trek with fairly long distances and considerable elevation in between huts, though it is possible to break down some of the long stages by adding overnight stay(s) at Hotel Mauvoisin and/or Cabane Brunet. Be prepared to carry all your gear as there is no baggage transport on the TDC. See review of my Gossamer Gear Kumo 36 Superlight backpack below.
There is significant exposure on some sections of the trail along with the crossing of a 70-meter (230 ft) high footbridge that is 210 meter long (656 ft), something to consider if you are afraid of heights. I was able to harness my moderate fear of heights when crossing the “Passerelle de Corbassière” and was vigilant when hiking through exposed terrain.
Our first overnight was at the Auberge de l’Hospice du Col du Grand St-Bernard.
We enjoyed a visit of the museum, which contains exhibits detailing the rich history of the pass at the border between Switzerland and Italy, fauna and flora of the surroundings, and the kennel where St-Bernard dogs are bred, along with the renowned monastery.
Meet Dusty, the only male St-Bernard dog staying at the kennel during our visit.
Col du Grand St-Bernard is worth a visit whether hiking the TDC clockwise or counter clockwise.
The second day was a short stage from Col du Grand St-Bernard to St-Rhémy en Bosses.
We decided to detour to Plan Puitz and its World War I fortifications, doubling our mileage for the day, if not more (11 miles/18 km).
Another option would be to take it easy, namely a short day hike with extra time to visit St-Rhémy en Bosses and its “castello.” Take note that hiking from Col Du Grand St-Bernard to Rifugio Champillon (granted there is availability) is also an option, however, it adds another long stage on the TDC, namely 13,8 miles / 22.1 km, and 4,403 ft / 1,252 m of elevation.
St-Rhémy en Bosses is the last municipality before the Swiss border - Col du Grand St-Bernard featured in this stained glass with its renowned monastery in the background.
The lower part of St-Rhémy en Bosses in the Aosta Valley.
Though we missed the ambiance and beautiful setting of the Rifugio Champillon by taking a variant on the third day, we thoroughly enjoyed our stay at both La Thuillettaz and Hotel Mont-Gelé for their relative remoteness, warm welcomes, beautiful settings, and private accommodations.
La Thuilletaz B&B in St-Rhémy en Bosses - our lodging for the night was an apartment with two rooms, including a kitchenette, and a balcony. For dinner and breakfast, we went to the Hotel des Alpes, down the path, a 5 minute walk.
One downside of our variant itinerary is that the signage was non existent from Etroubles to Ollomont, which made it difficult to find our route, while we ended up hiking 16 miles / 26 km from St-Rhémy en Bosses to Ollomont.
My Strava recording (from Polar watch): 16.31 miles / 26.3 km, 3,233 ft / 985 meters elevation, 6 hours and 16 minutes of moving time.
We started in St-Rhémy en Bosses, and not St-Rhémy, yet the distance is more or less the same. The TDC stage, as charted in Julien Moulin’s “Grand Tour des Combins,” that we uploaded via a QR code linked to the Swiss Mobility app, features a lower mileage: 12 miles/19 km. I contacted Julien Moulin via the site “Suisse Itinerance” to seek some answers about the difference from his “topo guide” and my strava segment and shared our concerns about the lack of signage from Etroubles to Ollomont.
Our overnight stays in the huts provided a comfortable environment, great food and drinks, a beautiful setting, and a welcoming staff. We slept in a bunk room for 3 at Cabane Chanrion and in a large bunk room at Cabane Panossière that was half full and which featured wooden partitions. This allowed me to use my mini C-Pap with a charging battery, unlike the Cabane de Mille, whose dormitory was full (10) and my mini C-Pap would have been too noisy for my adjacent bedfellows.
Cabane Chanrion was renovated in 2021, with a new section built, enhancing the overall experience, including smaller dormitories and showers..7 Swiss Francs.
The view from the window of our 3- bunk dormitory in Cabane Chanrion - we did not get to enjoy the beautiful terrasse, with its large white umbrellas, as it started to rain heavily shortly after our arrival.
Barrage de Mauvoisin, midway point from Cabane Chanrion to FXB Cabane Panossière
René spotted a herd of ibexes on our climb from Mauvoisin to the col des Otanes, which is the highest point on the TDC at 2875 m / 9,432 ft – the wayfinding panel indicates a slightly higher elevation.
This was our longest and steepest climb on the TDC, with some exposure in different sections of the trail, but no technical difficulties. It was also our most rewarding as the massif des Combins revealed itself in all its splendor, after reaching the Col des Otanes.
Hking the TDC clockwise provides a more gradual and prolonged view of the Grand Combin, and its massif, as you hike up from Cabane Brunet.
Cabane FXB Panossière’s panorama was the most striking with its view of all the Combins and the Glacier de Corbassière, though it is sobering to witness the dramatic shrinking of the glacier, both in area and surface mass.
Cabane FXB Panossière was built in 1996 with support from the FXB Foundation in memory of François Xavier Bagnoud a renowned Swiss helicopter rescue pilot who died tragically very young on a relief mission in Africa.
Itinerary
Below is our itinerary, which would have differed if I had found availability clockwise when booking in late March along with availability at the rifugio Champillon. Yet, we were extremely pleased with our route aside from the poorly marked stretch from Etroubles to Ollomont along with the long distance.
Day 1: Bourg St-Pierre to Col du Grand Saint-Bernard (Auberge de l’Hospice)
Day 2: Col du Grand St-Bernard to St-Rhémy en Bosses (La Thuilletaz)
Day 3: St-Rhémy en Bosses to Ollomont (Hotel Mont Gelé)
Day 4: Ollomont to Cabane Chanrion
Day 5: Cabane Chanrion to FXB Cabane Panossière
Day 6: FXB Cabane Panossière to Cabane de Mille
Day 7: Cabane de Mille to Orsières
We relied on two guide books:
“Trekking the Tour des Combins” by Andrew McGluggage, 2024.
“Grand Tour des Combins” by Julien Moulin, 2024.
René captured the whole length of the Passerelle de Corbasières with the Grand Combin in the background.
THE GEAR
Like prior treks with RoadTrailRun, this trek provided a great platform to test new gear and I am extremely grateful for the samples we received free of charge. I made sure the gear would be well adapted to our trek, i.e. a lightweight backpack specifically designed for hiking, the Gossamer Kumo 36 while I went a bit off the beaten path by further testing, and on a “grande”r scale, the Grandview Max hiking sandals from Teva when hiking boots were the norm, especially with a ~ 20lbs load on my back.
I also tested a pair of trail running shoes from La Sportiva, which I wore 3 days out 7 days, the Prodigio Max (RTR Review) while my brother René wore a pair of sturdy mountaineering boots from La Sportiva, the Aequilibrium ST GTX that have been his favorite hiking boots.
Below is a list of all the Gear that I received free of charge and which enhanced my trekking experience on the TDC. Some of the samples were tested prior to the trek and I include links to their reviews.
Gossamer Gear Kumo 36 Superlight (180)
Teva Grandview Max Hiking Sandals ($130)
Road Trail Run Grandview Max Review
Prodigio Max ($185)
RoadTrailRun La Sportiva Prodigio Max Review
Salomon Aero Sense Long Sleeve ($85)
Burgeonoutdoor Alpha™Direct Hoodie - Unisex ($110)
See our Burgeon Outdoor. Article and Review
Lekiusa.com Skytera FX CARBON SL ($220)
Mammut Women Runbold Pants ($120)
Compressport Ultra Trail Socks Ultra Trail Socks V2.0 ($28)
Kahtoola INSTAgaiter SL ($35)
FlipMitts ($30) I wore them everyday in lieu of my usual hiking gloves
Ciele Athletics TRLBucket-Comp ($80) – see pictures; Like Sam I am always wearing my Ciele Bucket!
Gossamer Gear Kumo 36 Superlight ($180)
Gossamer Gear is a company with a focus on “shedding every possible gram” when it comes to designing outdoor gear, such as backpacks, shelters, and trekking poles, to elevate performance and enhance one’s experience on the trail.
RoadTrailRun has been reviewing Gossamer Gear Markus Review of the Kumo36 Ultralight since 2023, yet a Gossamer Gear backpack was a novelty to me. After decades of hiking with traditional backpacks from known brands, a 13-mile walk back in July was a sure test that I would be transitioning to a superlight and frameless pack - the Kumo 36 - for our upcoming trek on our Tour des Combins. Oops, this was Sam’s tester, which he relinquished to me, and later regretted it. His scoliosis got aggravated by carrying a ~20lbs load on his back compelling to end his TDC on the third day in Ollomont.
Gossamer Gear is more specifically oriented towards fastpackers and trekkers who carry all their gear and supplies, unlike us, as we trekked from hut to hut, including small alpine lodgings.
The capacity of my pack at 36L was perfect for my 7-day trek allowing me to lighten the load on my back while carrying all the necessities, including a big ANKER battery pack, an AirMini Portable CPAP, and OZLO Sleepbuds® – adding up to an extra 3.30 lbs/1.5kg – to help improve my recovery on a day to day basis by better managing my sleep.
Superlight Gosemear Gear backpacks are frameless aside from their higher capacity backpacks (50L and above). The idea of a frameless backpack might not rock everyone’s boat in our category of hikers/trekkers, yet I experienced zero issue with the Kumo 36 carrying a ~ 20lbs load over a period of 7 days hiking a total of 72 miles / 116 km.
The Kumo 36 comes in 2 sizes: small and medium. A sizing guide helps you determine whether to get a size small or medium. Sam’s tester was a size medium, which worked well though a size small would have been preferable.
The weight of the pack is 20 oz / 567 g for a size medium and slightly less for a size small. Superlight weight, the upshot is that I was able to carry all my necessities without adding extra weight. The ~20lbs pack sat comfortably on my shoulders and back without creating any issues for me throughout the trek - the shoulder straps are densely and firmly padded and I made good use of the two straps to secure the pack around my torso.
The Kumo 36 is a highly functional pack with many pockets that add both capacity and easily accessible storage.
One large back pocket made of Robic nylon and stretchable mesh fabric
Two side pockets made of Robic nylon with a stretchable ribbing
Two front pockets made of a stretchable mesh which hold Salomon 500ml flasks
Two zippered pockets attached to the belt ( belt is removable)
One top sizable zippered pocket (on the outside of the pack)
As I was carrying an extra pair of footwear for testing purposes, the large back pocket proved very useful to store either my Teva hiking sandals or my La Sportiva trail shoes along with my rain jacket and rain cover for my pack.
As a frameless pack, there is no separation between the pack and your back while the SitLight Pad is made of non breathable foam. The lack of airflow and breathability in the back of the pack was not an issue for me as the weather was on the cool side for the most part. The SitLight pad is removable and can be used as a seat or as a base of a pillow when camping.
Gossamer Gear features a line of accessories that includes the Air Flow Sitlight, adding both cushioning and ventilation. Available in 3 different sizes, small, medium, and large, the Air Flow Sitlight in part of a “Pack Bundle” ($57) to upgrade your trail experience.
At $180, the Gossamer Gear Kumo 36L is reasonably priced for a superlight and high performance backpack The refined hardware on the pack is easy to use and sturdy. Available in 3 different colorways: Mystic Rage, Yellow, and Gray. The pack does not come with a rain cover and the seams do not appear to be factory sealed so I used a Deuter rain cover on rainy days.
My experience hiking the TDC with the Kumo 36 was extremely positive though the lack of airflow in the back might be problematic for hikers who tend to sweat profusely and when hiking in hot weather conditions. If so, this can be helped by purchasing the Air Flow Stilight as an upgrade. This was the perfect pack for my TDC and looking for more hiking and trekking with my Kumo 36.
Teva Women's Grandview Max Hiking Sandals ($130)
I tested and reviewed the Teva Grandview Max Hiking Sandals prior to deciding to wear them (4 days out 7 days) on the TDC. Though they are designed for rugged terrain and they worked great for me, the intent here is not to recommend hiking the TDC in Teva’s, albeit it is their most technical hiking sandals, but to feature an open-toe alternative for hikers.
As displayed in a section of the boot storage at Cabane Chanrion, hiking boots are the norm on the TDC. There was also a group of mountain bikers (6) staying at the hut and I did not pay attention to their footwear, which might account for some of the trail shoes.
For those embarking on the Via Francigena from Bourg St-Pierre all the way to Rome (610 miles / 997 km), I would certainly recommend the Grandview Max (perhaps as a second pair) to experience the benefits of open-toed walking/hiking while minimizing the risks.
As a more senior hiker, I found relief hiking in the Grandview Max as I tend to suffer (lightly) from a Morton’s neuroma while measuring my risks. More prone to twist my ankle in my Teva’s than in a pair of hiking boots, I was always careful on the downhills.
Not exactly equipped with a “toe bumper” in the traditional sense, as this is an open-toed sandal, the front edge of the sandal is protected by the sturdy material of the Vibram outsole which is also slightly raised via the front rocker. I made that observation as I bumped the front of my sandal against rocks on a few occasions and this without hurting my toes.
I enjoyed the feel of hiking in open-toe mode while I felt surefooted navigating the terrain, which at times was pretty rugged. My preference for wearing them was for the uphills, even steep uphills, as my feet would slide slightly forward during steep downhills. I would switch to my trail shoes, which I was also testing, on rainy days (we also had snow) and on days when the trail featured significant exposure, just to be on the safe side.
In contrast, my brother René wore mountaineering boots from La Sportiva while he was respectful of my footwear choice, especially as I completed the TDC like clockwork!
I wore a pair of Compressport Ultra Trail socks with either my sandals or my trail shoes Compressport Ultra Trail Socks, which in both instances was the perfect pairing.
Since I received my Grandview Max in late July, I have totalled more than 100 miles - both hiking and walking. The upper is holding extremely well, the cushioning of the midsole is still responsive and protective, and the outsole is barely showing any sign of wear.
I hiked the 72 miles/116 km on the TDC free of blisters and without a single foot issue alternating between my Teva’s Grandview Max (4 days) and La Sportiva Prodigio Max (3 days). I gladly gave all my Compeed® Blister Care at Cabane Panossière to a new trail friend we met on the TDC.
Over the years, I have hiked in both hiking boots and low tops in the “fast and light” category; here is a list of my favorites:
AKU Selvatica Mid GTX Hiking Boots www.roadtrailrun.com and www.roadtrailrun.com
TOPO Athletic Trailventure WP 2 www.roadtrailrun.com
TOPO Traverse www.roadtrailrun.com
Merrell Moab Speed 2 Mid Gore-Tex www.roadtrailrun.com
Merrell Agility Peak 5 www.roadtrailrun.com
Brooks Cascadia 17 www.roadtrailrun
La Sportiva Prodigio Max featured in this article and in La Sportiva Prodigio Max Review
La Sportiva Prodigo Max ($185), Compressport Ultra Trail Socks V2.0
($28), and Khatoola INSTAgaiter SL ($35)
Trekking the TDC with two pairs of hikers, a sandal and a trail runner, when the norm is to hike in a pair of hiking boots, proved to be a positive experience for me, though I am not trying to set a trend. It also required carrying an extra pair of footwear in my pack.
I wore Kahtoola InstaGaiter SL minimalist strapless gaiter from Kahtoola, over my Prodigio Max, mostly to add another layer of protection on rainy days as the upper does an excellent job of keeping debris out.
After Sam tested both the Prodigio Max and Pro in mid-June, he strongly recommended the Prodigio Max for my TDC, highlighting its incredible cushioning made with dual nitrogen infused foams, enhanced support, overall performance on long distances, and rugged outsole with 4 mm lugs fit for the high mountain trails.
In early August, I was grateful to receive a sample pair in the attractive colorway Hibiscus/Malibu Blue sizing up half a size - as recommended.
I wore the Prodigio Max on a few day-hikes prior to the TDC.
In lieu of my typical Darn Tough hiking socks, I paired my Prodigio Max with socks from Compressport - the Ultra Trail - as they were more breathable, slighter thinner, and more supportive. In short, a trail running shoer calls for a pair of trail running socks, which proved to be the perfect pairing - and combo - as my feet were blister-free and remained pain-free throughout the trek.
Engineered for ultra-distance athletes racing on high mountain trails, the Prodigio Max is also a great option as a low top “hiker/trekker” delivering all-day comfort and a secure platform.
The fit (after sizing up half a size) is perfect and extremely comfortable with a foothold that I would deem outstanding. Designed with a wider forefoot, the toebox provides just the right amount of room for a comfortable spread of your toes. The Prodigio Max might be lighter as a trail run shoe, they felt extremely lightweight, stable and highly agile when hiking - the weight in my US women’s 9.5 is 10.3 oz / 291 g per shoe.
The upper is made of TPEE polyester mesh whose properties are high elasticity and resilience, durability and strength, and breathability.
The Prodigio Max’s upper is primarily designed to be resilient, durable, and to keep debris out, with breathability taking a bit of hit with the double tongue gusset delivering a superior foothold. This said, the breathability is adequate as my feet did not overheat during the trek.
On a rainy day, my feet were not soaked wet like other hikers on the trail, perhaps a combination of the dense upper, fast drying socks, and INSTAgaiter from Kahtoola .
At a fairly high stack height - 37 m forefoot / 31 mm heel - the midsole is made with dual nitrogen infused foams, a/k/a, supercritical foam. I was truly grateful for the underfoot feel of the midsole: cushy, lightweight, and bouncy, which led to my feet not hurting at the end of the day.
The outsole is made with FRIXION® RED (XT 2.0), a dual rubber compound with a stickier rubber in the center (white) and more durable rubber on the sides of the sole (blue).
A grippy outsole with 4 mm lugs that are fairly spread out to help shed the mud with a durable platform and great shock absorption. The outsole complements the deep cushioning of the midsole also providing rock protection (no plate), with its softer center and flex grooves helping create a smooth ride with the more durable rubber on the sides enhancing stability and a secure landing.
Engineered for ultra-distance athletes racing on high mountain trails, the Prodigio Max is also a great option as a low top “hiker/trekker” delivering all-day comfort and a secure platform.
Salomon Aero Sense Long Sleeve ($85 original price in cherry tomato)
I wore my Salomon Sense Aero 4 days out 7 days during our TDC, with one wash in between, as Laura from La Thuillettaz offered to do our laundry. Made with ultra-light Knit-Flow fabric that combines thermoregulation from 37.5® and odor management by Ionic+® Botanical, the Sense Aero is designed primarily as a running long-sleeve tee, but is also the perfect layer for hiking.
Features:
Weight: 125 g / 4.4 ounces
Fit: slim
Anti-odor, Breathable, Lightweight, Quick Dry
Key technology: (Knit_Flow)™
Knit_Flow™technology includes thermoregulation from 37.5® and odor management by Ionic+® along with a fabric that is highly drapable (flow). The long sleeve tee flows as opposed to sticking to the skin adding another layer of comfort on top of its thermoregulating properties, quick dry, and odor management.
After trekking in the Sense Aero , I am now wearing the long sleeve for running, which has become my go-to top.
Leki SkyTera FX Carbon SL ($220)
My One Way trekking poles were lost on the tramway in Geneva (oops Sam left them behind), and I was truly grateful to get a new pair from LEKI after Sam met with a member of the France Leki team in Chamonix during the UTMB race week.
Top of line trekking poles constructed from lightweight carbon fiber, the SKYTERA is an adjustable-length pole, weighing 6 ounces / 170g , that features an extended grip made with 1K foam, which provides a super comfortable hold that is also ergonomic.
A dense and firm grip with a striated foam extension giving your hands the option to navigate the grip while hiking. I really liked that feature in the SKYTERA as I would hold the striated foam extension during steep uphills and then resume holding the grip as the terrain would be less steep.
We ran into a trail runner from near us in Maine in St Rhemy en Bosses training for Tor des Geants
I finally felt confident handling a pair of trekking poles when it comes to folding them, something I did at the end of our TDC while on the train, as I used them every single step of the way. In short, the SKYTERA folds into 3 sections like most trekking poles, however, I never struggled either folding them or extending them, as I have done with certain trekking poles.
The SKYTERA is adjustable between 110 and 130 cm allowing for users to either shorten or lengthen the poles depending on the terrain. Sitting between a trail running and trekking pole in weight the SKYTERA is a very versatile pole. Unlike many running poles its small basket can be swapped for larger ones for some snow travel.
The SKYTERA is a worthy investment if you are looking for top of the line trekking poles. I was truly grateful for my LEKI on the TDC.
Please do not hesitate to comment if you have questions about this amazing trek!
Dominique has run for over 45 years, consistently about 25 miles per week at paces between 11 and 12 minute miles and once a week down in the mid 9 minute miles. She races rarely, but always surprises more hard core runners in her age group when she does. She has a 1985 marathon PR of 3:16 in her second marathon which at the time put her on the top 10 Swiss women’s lists. An avid hiker and trekker, she has been around Mont Blanc 3 times, hiked Chamonix to Zermatt, and completed the 48 New Hampshire 4000 footers. She is the mother of two grown children, both runners post college, and also enjoys nordic and alpine skiing, tennis, and gardening.
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